In light of the challenges of a large-scale war in Ukraine, Odessa Fashion Day and London Fashion Day act as catalysts for the development of young Ukrainian designers. In the interview with Konstantin Leoniev we will talk about his project London Fashion Day, difficulties of adaptation in a new place and strategies to support the creative community.
Not long ago, the 27th season of Odessa Fashion Day took place, dedicated to revival and motivation. Was it difficult to maintain your project during the war, what challenges did Odessa Fashion Day face?
It was a challenging decision, and in general, it raised many questions. At the beginning of the war, my family and I left Ukraine with the hope that the situation would improve soon, and we could resume our lives, continue our development, and enjoy the things we had. During that time, we had a season scheduled for April, which we naturally canceled as it seemed impractical.
We all volunteered to help several community organizations, contributing to posting, creating visuals, and disseminating information. Ukrainians, in general, united in dealing with urgent matters during that time. This involvement continued until July. By July, we were already in England and realized that we didn’t have a clear idea of how our future would unfold. We faced a challenging period of adaptation, trying to believe that we were now in a safe place. However, we also understood that many of our plans and work were disrupted. We needed to take action because, in the past, we lived and created without thinking that everything could change in an instant.
The pandemic period brought its challenges, and it appears that this time was both challenging and exciting. Many people discovered the online world as a potential avenue for the development of their projects, including our Odessa Fashion Day initiative. However, things became more complicated during this period, as we realized that Odessa Fashion Day, created 14 years ago as a platform to present designer collections, required investment to bring these collections to life. Money, in this period, underwent a shift in value for everyone. The process of creation became more complex, and generating ideas now necessitated a clear understanding of whether the collection would be sold, where, and at what price. The economic landscape became a formidable challenge.
Despite these difficulties, in the fall of 2022, we decided to revive this process. We actively assisted with online publications and websites, continuing to support designers. In the early days of the war, we established a separate group where designers volunteered to create military clothing for free. Some of them completely shifted to producing military clothing, unfortunately receiving only partial recognition.
So, at that time, we assisted everyone—those seeking fabrics, and those in need of connecting with suppliers or factories. However, it gradually became apparent that many designers had left Ukraine. Some continued to develop their brands within the country, while others, based outside of it, supported their regions.
After the New Year, in early 2023, following discussions with colleagues, we decided to host the next season of Odessa Fashion Day in the spring. Organizing any project requires funding, and Odessa Fashion Day has never been a project that sold tickets. We lacked a specific box office that could be used for organizational matters. Therefore, the designers serve as co-founders of this project, contributing their share, and we also have partners, sponsors, etc., following the standard scheme for the event business. However, in this situation, we minimized costs to the absolute minimum. We engaged with everyone needed, leveraged the support of old acquaintances and friends, and found a suitable venue for our project.
The venue was provided to us on partnership terms, including light, sound, and other equipment, as well as press coverage. This showcased the power of collaboration once again, and it was a great success. The season featured 10 participating brands from different parts of Ukraine, representing the East, West, Central Ukraine, Kyiv, and Odesa. It was invigorating to realize that we were on the right track. By helping businesses understand their importance and supporting designers in attracting audiences, we contribute to restoring self-confidence. There is an audience ready to make purchases, potential partners and buyers, and showrooms—all the necessary components, just in a slightly different form.
Beginning this spring, we decided to actively transition into the normal phase of project development. We are expanding information about the project and continuing to support designers, re-engaging in the consulting activity that was part of our original mission. This fall, we celebrated our 27th season in a beautiful location, unveiling a new venue and presenting 11 amazing brands. Our team is based in Odessa—comprising friends and partners who have supported the project throughout the years.
How does OFDconsult contribute to the development and support of young Ukrainian designers, and what specific programs are you introducing to stimulate their growth?
It can’t be said that all the programs we had implemented before are currently active. Previously, we had a well-established ecosystem in place. We assisted designers in the early stages of brand formation and trademark registration. We had a network of partners specializing in legal and accounting matters related to trademark registration. Additionally, there was a group of designers available to help create brand books and design brand packaging. All these components were integral to our operations.
While there are individual requests, we address them more likely on a non-profit consulting basis rather than a commercial one. Currently, the financial aspect of the company is at a standstill.
Just like the project, everything is driven by initiative, collaboration, and partnership. These are the initial strokes as if we were starting from scratch again so that in the future, we can build the right direction. We have international cooperation programs with partners in France, England, and other countries, as well as partners in Canada, aimed at providing services related to the promotion or sale of designers’ work. However, what kind of programs are these? We are not a state company, and we don’t rely on grants. So, what programs can we offer? It’s not about financing but knowledge.
We provide intelligent programs related to the fact that the situation is the same in England. Designers and talented individuals are graduating from universities, colleges, and institutes. Just like in Ukraine, they often leave with a lack of understanding of what to do next. In essence, OFDconsult was originally designed to answer this very question: What to do next?
These involve management, marketing, and sales. In essence, it enables someone to subsequently generate income, make sales, and launch the next lines, creating growth opportunities. This is probably the primary focus now. We aim to elevate brands to the international level and assist designers in promoting their work in other countries, particularly in the UK.
Moving to London influenced your creative process. What new opportunities does integration into British culture and society open up for you, especially after the success of London Fashion Day?
Well, I want to share that relocating somewhere, not necessarily to another country but essentially from one apartment to another, brings about certain adjustments to what you’re already accustomed to. Yes, into your usual routine, your regular schedule, your plans, your strategies. In this situation, we changed absolutely everything. We changed our mindset, we changed the language, and, in fact, all those aspects familiar to our way of life. Going from a prosperous state, where the project is flourishing, and you have time to generate ideas, to the point where you only have time to earn money to cover rent or pay for utilities, which are many times higher than in other countries.
Now, as in Maslow’s pyramid, we find ourselves, with squeaking wheels, at the lowest level of needs. The extra effort put into generating creativity, all these creative energies, and the act of creating, emerge when you have free time to think, to sit down and plan, to analyze what is happening around you, and to understand whether it is necessary. Similarly, we waited for a year in parallel, observed, and watched how the industry functions here, and how it functions in France.
In September 2022, we organized a wonderful fashion day in Paris, bringing several Ukrainian designers. We assessed the audience’s reaction and analyzed everything. It was perfect; we liked everything. Later, we staged two luxurious shows in London as part of the Women’s Forum in September 2022. While the audience accepted and perceived it all well, we realized that focusing more on our audience, on Ukrainians, on immigrants, to introduce them to Ukrainian designers and showcase new collections, was a priority. However, adapting to the British market proved more challenging. We observed numerous projects during London Fashion Week, a significant venue that is challenging to enter and requires membership in a club. The system in England is fascinating and works well, but it demands time and years to adapt. There are other projects, both small and large, with professional and non-professional goals. Many projects have vague objectives and missions.
The London Fashion Day project became a kind of pilot for us last year, and this summer we hosted our first event. We invited 90% of the British audience, including influencers, designers, representatives of retail, and media, and studied their reactions through communication. The result was excellent, and in the fall, we organized a second season, which was even better and of higher quality. We hosted 11 shows, including 5 Ukrainian brands and a sixth brand owned by a Ukrainian woman who has been living in Britain for many years.
We received magnificent reviews, and a lot of gratitude, and encountered many potential friends and partners—people expressing interest in collaborating and seeing prospects in our project. From this point on, we feel even more confident that we are on the right path, and that everything we do has meaning. Our knowledge, expertise, and 15 years of experience can be applied here. On the contrary, I can say that when a person comes, for example, to Britain, they simply reset to zero. All their knowledge, expertise, and beautiful phrases in their resume become irrelevant.
The community here is interested in what you have accomplished in this country, what specific contributions you’ve made, and with whom you’re collaborating. They are specifically interested in your current activities, not your experiences. Upon our initial arrival, like everyone in any country, we registered with employment centers. However, after reviewing our resumes, which highlighted three higher educations, we were offered jobs as cleaners, caregivers for the elderly, or waiters.
It was a disheartening experience, considering the years, money, effort, and desire invested in obtaining knowledge and applying it to successful projects, some of which have no analogs abroad. Suddenly, we were being offered something entirely different. At these moments, not only was I disheartened, but, in my opinion, absolutely everyone felt devalued in three seconds, being told that everything written on our resumes was of no interest. It felt like starting not just from scratch, but from a negative point. However, at the moment, there’s a clear picture, goals, plans, and a vision of where we want to go and how to develop our project. We’ll live and see how it unfolds.
What were the biggest challenges when adapting to London’s new cultural environment, and how did you overcome them while continuing to work on successful projects?
The most significant challenge, undoubtedly, is the language barrier. Upon arrival, one quickly realizes that all the knowledge gained from studying English at school or various universities is inadequate in practice. The reality is entirely different, especially when you’re not here for leisure but to fully take care of yourself and address everyday life challenges such as paying for utilities, dealing with registration, and understanding the nuances, rules, and legislation. It was a formidable task. Fortunately, we had friends who invited us here, and thanks to them, we successfully adapted to the environment in the first seven months and enrolled in college.
We started from the basics, essentially relearning the alphabet. It wasn’t bad; in fact, it was quite enriching. We had the opportunity to enhance our language skills significantly. Another crucial aspect was figuring out how to integrate into the local environment, and how to establish networking opportunities. Networking works like magic in these situations. Whenever possible, I try to participate in various clubs, events, and exhibitions—anywhere that’s somehow connected to my activities. It doesn’t matter if it’s a paid event, free, or whether you were invited or saw it and reached out yourself. Nowadays, it’s easier, as I can introduce myself as the founder of a project that the audience already knows about, which the press covers, and it opens up entirely different doors and prospects.
At the very beginning, the key realization was the importance of knowing the language. You can hear a multitude of languages and dialects while on the subway, languages you might not even have been aware of. However, when it comes to matters at work, in a store, or in an office, English takes precedence as the primary language. Nonetheless, there’s no prohibition on speaking your language at home; you’re free to stroll down the street conversing in your native tongue and switch to English when interacting with others. It’s a fascinating dynamic, requiring a mental shift, yet no one is imposing it on you. There simply isn’t any other viable option. Without proficiency in English, adapting to this environment becomes nearly impossible. That’s the reality, plain and simple.
I want to emphasize the fantastic nature of networking. It allows you to create your environment, community, and connections, enabling you to find people who share your interests, potential partners, and collaborators for exciting projects. Networking also provides access to interest clubs, where individuals can explore diverse activities. Personally, I’ve joined a boxing club, not necessarily because it aligns perfectly with my interests, but rather as a means of finding an emotional outlet amid a busy schedule. Notably, this particular club is part of the LGBTQ+ community, fostering an environment where people feel comfortable expressing their interests. What I appreciate most is the freedom for everyone to choose their path in life, whether it’s a conventional role or something more unconventional. You can identify as she, he, or they, while still maintaining your physical identity as a man or a woman.
All of this provides people with the opportunity to be more open, free, and creative. However, it doesn’t come without a contrast to the educational system, which often trains individuals to be more reserved. Making friends here can be quite challenging. In Ukraine, this process is generally more straightforward. Particularly after the pandemic, people here tend to maintain some physical distance and prefer online communication platforms like Zoom and WhatsApp. Physical meetings might occur once a week for coffee or a gathering.
Having lived in Odessa, I became accustomed to a different social dynamic. Evenings were spent drinking coffee and wine, engaging in conversations, and socializing. It felt like every day was a weekend for us. While we all worked, the ability to unwind was different. Perhaps, this adjustment was the biggest hurdle in this situation. Finances also played a role, but opportunities abound. Jobs can be found everywhere, and there’s no shame in starting from scratch. If I hadn’t secured a stable job through friends at that time, providing financial stability, I might have considered working in a pub, pouring coffee or beer. Feeling financially stable is normal and crucial in navigating such transitions.
Your participation in the Fashion Innovations Forum demonstrates your interest in innovation. What specific trends or approaches strike you most in the fashion industry today?
While we may not have a direct involvement in the Fashion Innovation Forum, we are open to exploring any projects that push the boundaries in the fashion industry—a commitment that holds great importance for me. Actively participating in exhibitions, attending colleagues’ shows, and engaging in industry events are integral to my approach to understanding and learning. Recently, we were honored to be invited as curators for a competition spotlighting young designers. Additionally, a London college invited us to serve as mentors at an event featuring shows by emerging talents. This exemplifies how one can always seek opportunities that motivate, foster development, and inspire.
Just as an example, during my time in Paris, I attended Premier Vision, an exhibition showcasing innovation and creativity in the industry, providing insights into the latest trends in the fashion world. This is indicative of my consistent openness to such events and the wealth of inspiration they offer.
How does your agency facilitate the interaction of Ukrainian designers with international media and influencers, helping them increase the visibility of their brands?
Since the inception of London Fashion Day, our active engagement with Ukrainian brands and designers has been a priority. We aim to serve as a bridge—a connecting link between those seeking points of sale beyond Ukraine and the dissemination of information about themselves. While we may not function as a full-fledged PR agency, we have assembled a dedicated team of copywriters, and visual designers, and established partnerships with media outlets, enabling us to operate effectively in this market. Collaborating with photographers and videographers, we’ve successfully executed several cases with talented designers.
The second direction we are keen to develop involves creating cross-projects between Ukraine and other countries, particularly the UK. In the post-war period, we envision a potential strengthening of ties between designers, fostering the exchange of experiences, and expanding sales geographies. Our goal is to assist Ukrainian designers in acquiring new skills and showcasing potential directions for their development.
While we acknowledge that we are not superhuman and are constantly learning, our initial belief that we were the best in Ukraine has evolved as we recognize that every place has its unique characteristics and rules. With experience working alongside Ukrainian designers abroad since 2014, we aim to leverage this foundation to fortify and advance our existing endeavors.
Our strengths lie in marketing, PR, and management, and we aspire to contribute value to the local market and support our brands in international programs. Looking ahead, we anticipate that European brands may find interest in expanding their presence in Ukraine, fostering the introduction of high-quality products into the market.
