Clothing as part of identity: Ukrainian style

The uniqueness and diversity of Ukrainian national costumes have evolved over the centuries, preserving a deep historical context and cultural traditions. Even during princely times, fundamental elements of the national dress, such as the retinue, coat, shirt, overshoes, and crown, took shape in the territory of Kyivan Rus. Particularly notable style variations emerged in the Middle Dnipro region, including the present-day Cherkasy region, where traces of Trypillian traditions can still be identified.

Efforts to reconstruct folk costumes indicate that Ukrainians paid meticulous attention to detail and utilized natural materials, emphasizing their connection to nature. Due to the ethnographic peculiarities of different regions, the costumes developed distinctive features, reflecting cultural diversity.

However, the significance and authenticity of Ukrainian costumes faced challenges, especially during the Soviet occupation. Distorted costumes of dance and vocal ensembles were deemed “traditional,” while genuine pieces were confined to museums or turned into collectibles. Despite these challenges, Ukrainian dress persisted as a crucial aspect of cultural heritage. It found expression in the works of prominent designers, both Ukrainian and foreign, who incorporated elements of Ukrainian embroidery and traditions into their fashion collections.

Regarding the elegance and uniqueness of Ukrainian dress, Ilya Repin expressed his opinion by comparing Ukrainian women to Parisian women:

“Only Little Russians and Parisian women know how to dress with taste! You won’t believe how charmingly the girls dress, and the boys are also smart: … it’s a folk, comfortable and graceful costume. And what ducats, monists, headdresses, and flowers! And what faces! What a language! Just beauty, beauty, and beauty!”

The main components of the national Ukrainian dress

Body shirt

In Ukrainian national dress, the shirt is an important element that carries a rich historical and cultural experience. Until the beginning of the twentieth century, it served as undergarments and was characterized by a wide variety of cuts and purposes. It was mostly made of linen or cloth and was decorated depending on the purpose and social status of the person.

The shirt was not only an element of clothing but also had a peculiar symbolic meaning. For example, at weddings, the groom often wore a shirt made by his bride. This reflected traditions and a connection to family life.

In terms of regional peculiarities, the shirt acquired different variations of cut and decoration, which was determined by the influence of traditions and cultural context of different regions of Ukraine.

Hip clothes

In Ukrainian national costume, the explanatory garment was of great importance, decorating the lower part of the figure and reflecting the rich cultural heritage. In men’s clothing, it is primarily a variety of shapes and cuts of trousers, which were called different names, such as gachy, holoshnya, and nogavytsi. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the wide cut of trousers was preserved in Left-Bank and Eastern Ukraine until it was replaced by the urban style.

Two primary methods were employed for wearing undergarments and belted clothing. In regions with wide trousers, the shirt was neatly tucked into them, while in areas with narrow trousers, the shirt was worn loosely.

In the realm of women’s costumes, various approaches were adopted to fashion a belt. Typically, a shirt and one or more fabric pieces covering the lower part of the body were worn. For instance, a stocking comprised of a broader and lengthier back piece paired with a thicker blue front piece. During festive occasions, additional embroidery or ornamentation was introduced.

The skirt served as an integral component of women’s belted attire, featuring diverse variations depending on the region, ranging from coarse woolen fabric to exquisite homespun materials.

The variety of men’s belted clothing included a wide range of trousers that could be found in different regions of Ukraine. For example, in Bukovyna, trousers with narrow, long cuffs were popular, while on the Left Bank, trousers with deep square bottoms and wide legs were used. Trousers were widespread where horseback riding was important. Made of different materials, they were decorated with colored threads.

Chest and Outerwear

In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Ukrainian women wore chest garments that defined the upper part of their figure and influenced their overall silhouette. One of the most popular elements was the kersetka, made of factory fabrics and decorated with pleated trims, embroidery, and appliqué. Women also wore sleeveless garments, such as kersetki, keptari, and leibiki, which served an important function in emphasizing the silhouette and covering the body.

Outerwear in the nineteenth-century Central regions of Ukraine was categorized into autumn, spring, and winter garments. Various styles of fitted outerwear crafted from homemade fabrics thrived during this period. This included the emergence of narrow-cut worlds, initially popular among men but later adopted by women.

In the Carpathian and foothill regions, shorter versions of outerwear were prevalent, contrasting with the longer versions favored in the mountainous areas of the Carpathians.

Traditional garments such as the Circassian dress, zhupan, kuntsush, and chumarka gradually fell out of favor in the latter half of the nineteenth century. The artistic elements of these pieces found new expression in other parts of the costume, such as the zhupan, which was historically crafted from blue or green fabric.
A distinctive characteristic was the evolution of fur clothing, progressing from sheepskin to more intricate designs. In the latter half of the nineteenth century, sheep fur clothing gained popularity in the central regions. However, by the early twentieth century, peasants shifted their preference towards winter-wadded clothing made from factory fabrics.

Traditional Ukrainian costume is not only a reflection of historical changes in the worldview and socio-cultural context but also a living heir to the aesthetic preferences and emotional intensity of generations. Its deep roots can be traced back through the ages, shaded by the influence of various cultures, but never losing its uniqueness. By looking at Ukrainian embroidery and ornaments, we discover the richness of symbolism and motifs that fill every detail with national clothing. Thus, folk costume becomes not only a subject of research but also a living part of the identity of each region of Ukraine.